Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Dans la Nuit by Worth c1924

Dans la Nuit was launched in 1922, a time marked by the aftermath of World War I and the cultural dynamism of the Roaring Twenties. This era, also known as the Jazz Age, was characterized by a break from tradition, a surge in creative expression, and an embrace of modernity. Women gained greater social freedoms, symbolized by the flapper movement, which celebrated bold fashion choices, shorter hairstyles, and a more liberated lifestyle. This period was also a golden age for the arts, with movements like Art Deco influencing design and fashion. The fragrance industry flourished during this time, with perfumes becoming an essential accessory for the modern woman.

"Dans la Nuit" translates to "In the Night" in English. This name was likely chosen to evoke the allure, mystery, and romance associated with the night. Nights in the 1920s, particularly in Paris, were synonymous with vibrant social scenes, glamorous parties, and an air of enchantment. The name "Dans la Nuit" encapsulates the essence of these nocturnal experiences, suggesting a perfume that is both seductive and enigmatic. It speaks to the allure of the unknown and the promise of adventure that nightfall brings.

The night is often associated with romance, intrigue, and a certain mystique—all qualities that are highly desirable in a perfume. A fragrance named "Dans la Nuit" conjures images of moonlit evenings, secret encounters, and the sophistication of evening attire. It suggests a scent that is both intimate and captivating, perfect for enhancing the charm and allure of the wearer during evening engagements. This makes "Dans la Nuit" an apt name, as it aligns with the desired effect of many perfumes: to leave a lasting, memorable impression.


Perfumes are crafted to evoke emotions, create moods, and transport the wearer to different times and places. "Dans la Nuit" aligns with these goals by invoking the sensory experiences associated with night time. The dark, sensual notes typically found in evening fragrances are designed to be alluring and enveloping, much like the embrace of the night itself. This perfume would have likely featured rich, opulent ingredients, creating a complex and deeply enchanting scent profile.

Women who were drawn to "Dans la Nuit" would have been those who embraced the elegance and excitement of the 1920s nightlife. They were confident, sophisticated, and enjoyed the glamour of evening events. These women would respond to the fragrance with a sense of empowerment and allure, appreciating its ability to enhance their natural charm and mystery. They were likely modern, fashion-forward individuals who valued luxury and refinement.

The words "Dans la Nuit" evoke images of moonlit gardens, starry skies, and the quiet, intimate moments shared in the shadows of night. There is a sense of mystery and anticipation, of whispered secrets and hidden desires. Feelings of romance, intrigue, and a touch of daring are inherent in the name, suggesting that the perfume would offer a sensory journey into the captivating world of night. The fragrance would likely evoke a sense of intimacy and allure, perfect for those special, unforgettable moments that often occur "in the night."

Dans la Nuit was initially created as a special gift for the distinguished clientele of the House of Worth. Commissioned by perfumer Maurice Blanchet, the fragrance was so well-received that the fashion house decided to offer it to the general public. This led to the establishment of Les Parfums Worth in 1924, with Dans la Nuit becoming their signature fragrance. This transition from an exclusive gift to a widely available perfume underscores its popularity and the allure it held for the sophisticated women of the era.

The Spatula, 1922:
"Dans La Nuit. Societe Worth, Paris, France."

c1926 Franklin Simon ad.

Worth was clever in crafting a series of perfumes with evocative names that told a love story, making each fragrance feel like a chapter in a romantic narrative. The titles of this series included "Dans la Nuit" ("In the Night"), "Vers le Jour" ("Towards the Day"), "Sans Adieu" ("Without Goodbye"), "Je Reviens" ("I Will Return"), "Vers Toi" ("Towards You"), "Projets" ("Plans" or "Projects"), "Imprudence" ("Recklessness"), and "Requête" ("Request"). Together, these names reflect the emotional stages of a love affair: the mystery and intimacy of the night, the promise of a new day, the bittersweet parting without farewells, the pledge of return, and the eventual reunification. These titles conjure up a romantic progression, from the initial allure of love to the challenges and uncertainties that arise, and finally, the enduring nature of affection.



The Luxurious Product Line of Dans la Nuit:


The Dans la Nuit line by Worth encompassed a wide array of luxurious products, each designed to embody the fragrance’s alluring essence and extend its enchanting experience across various forms of personal care. At the heart of the collection was the parfum extrait, the most concentrated form of the fragrance, housed in an exquisite bottle that mirrored the opulence and mystery of the night. This pure perfume offered the richest and longest-lasting scent, perfect for special occasions and intimate evenings.

Complementing the parfum extrait was the eau de toilette, a lighter version of the fragrance ideal for daily wear. This product allowed women to enjoy the enchanting scent of Dans la Nuit in a more subtle form, suitable for both day and evening. The eau de toilette provided a refreshing burst of the perfume’s key notes, maintaining the fragrance’s elegance while offering versatility.

Adding another layer of versatility was the eau de cologne, which provided a light and refreshing way to experience the scent of Dans la Nuit. Eau de cologne is typically less concentrated than eau de toilette, making it ideal for a fresh, invigorating application. This product was perfect for those who wanted to enjoy the scent in a more subdued manner or for layering with other products from the line.

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1938:
"Worth's eau de Cologne (distributed in U. S. by Al Rosenfeld, Inc.) comes in the Dans La Nuit and Je Reviens fragrances, in four sizes of crystal-clear Lalique bottles. The fragrances are very similar to the perfumes."

For a complete beauty regimen, the line included face powder and a face powder compact. These products allowed women to carry a touch of the Dans la Nuit mystique with them throughout the day. The face powder provided a soft, velvety finish to the skin, subtly infused with the perfume’s scent. The compact, often intricately designed, was a chic accessory for on-the-go touch-ups, combining practical beauty with the luxury of the fragrance.

Personal care was further enhanced by talc and dusting powder, which were perfect for keeping the skin feeling fresh and softly scented. These powders, lightly fragranced with Dans la Nuit, added a delicate layer of scent to the body, enhancing the wearer’s allure. The bath oil offered a sumptuous bathing experience, turning an ordinary bath into a ritual of relaxation and indulgence. Infused with the signature scent, the bath oil left the skin nourished and lightly perfumed, enveloping the bather in the fragrance’s seductive aura.

To keep personal items and linens delicately scented, the line featured sachet powder. These sachets could be placed in drawers or wardrobes, imparting a gentle fragrance to clothing and personal belongings. This subtle touch ensured that the scent of Dans la Nuit was a constant companion, imbuing everyday items with its enchanting presence.

Finally, the line included soap, a daily luxury that turned routine cleansing into an indulgent experience. The soap, infused with the fragrance, left the skin clean, soft, and pleasantly scented. Each product in the Dans la Nuit line was meticulously crafted to maintain the integrity and allure of the fragrance, offering a complete sensory experience that extended beyond just the perfume.

Together, these products created a cohesive and luxurious collection that allowed women to immerse themselves fully in the world of Dans la Nuit. Whether through the rich perfume, the practical elegance of face powder, the refreshing eau de cologne, or the indulgent bath oil, each item was designed to enhance the wearer’s allure and evoke the enchanting mystery of the night.



Original Fragrance Composition:


The creation of Dans la Nuit was an ambitious endeavor commissioned by Worth and executed by the renowned perfumer Maurice Blanchet. Blanchet was tasked with the challenge of combining extracts of various flowers to replicate the enchanting aroma of flowers emitting their scent at night, warmed by the sun. The resulting fragrance, known as Dans la Nuit, is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women, showcasing a complex and multi-faceted composition that captures the essence of a nocturnal garden. 
  • Top notes: acacia, bay leaves, aldehydes, bergamot, oleander, camelia, blackcurrant and berries
  • Middle notes: clove, thyme, sage, heliotrope, honeysuckle, jasmine, rose, tuberose and Tuscan iris
  • Base notes: civet, oakmoss, resins, vanilla, orris, ambergris, musk, cistus labdanum, Bourbon vetiver and Mysore sandalwood

Combat, 1955:
"Dans la Nuit - eau de cologne with the perfume of Worth. Under the trembling stars, Puck has stretched the mooncloth where the resins he brings back from the Orient meet the dormant flowers and the fruits of the orchard. From the roof of the night drips a perfume that has the untranslatable sorcery of desire. On the balcony, the insomniac sighs, her arms enfolded around her worried and delighted face."


Scent Story:



Under the trembling stars, the mischievous Puck stretches a silken mooncloth across the heavens, casting a silver sheen over the world below. This enchanted night is filled with the untranslatable sorcery of desire, where the resins he brings back from the Orient meet the dormant flowers and fruits of the orchard. The air is thick with the magic of a Midsummer's Night's Dream, and the insomniac on the balcony sighs, her arms enfolded around her worried and delighted face.

As she gazes into the night, she sees the moonlight dancing on the leaves, creating a mosaic of shadows and light. The soft rustle of leaves whispers secrets, and the distant chirping of crickets adds a gentle melody to the night. The cool, smooth railing of the balcony is a comforting touch under her fingertips, grounding her in this dreamlike world.

The scent of the night is intoxicating, a symphony of aromas that Puck has woven into the mooncloth. The fresh, sweet fragrance of acacia wafts through the air, mingling with the aromatic greenness of bay leaves. There’s a sparkling, airy quality from the aldehydes, lifting the fragrance and adding a modern twist. The zesty brightness of bergamot intertwines with the subtle, floral bitterness of oleander, creating a tantalizing contrast. As she inhales deeply, the delicate fragrance of camelia and the rich, juicy notes of blackcurrant and berries add depth and intrigue to the scene.

In the heart of the fragrance, the insomniac senses a lush and sensual floral bouquet. The warm, spicy aroma of clove, thyme, and sage drifts up from the garden below, blending with the sweet, powdery notes of heliotrope and honeysuckle. The heady, intoxicating scent of jasmine, rose, and tuberose fills the night air, their rich, opulent aromas evoking the image of flowers in full bloom under the moonlight. The sophisticated, earthy elegance of Tuscan iris grounds the floral heart, adding a touch of luxury to the night.

As the night deepens, the base notes provide a deep and lasting finish, ensuring the fragrance lingers seductively on the skin. The animalic, slightly musky note of civet blends with the earthy, woody scent of oakmoss, characteristic of chypre fragrances. Warm, sweet vanilla and resinous resins create a comforting base, complemented by the powdery, floral notes of orris. The sensuality of ambergris and musk lingers in the air, while cistus labdanum adds a resinous, balsamic quality. The smoky, woody sophistication of Bourbon vetiver and Mysore sandalwood completes the fragrance, creating a sense of refined elegance.

On the balcony, the insomniac tastes the night on her lips, a faint sweetness mingling with the cool air. She hears the soft rustling of leaves, the distant chirping of crickets, and the occasional whisper of the wind. The night is alive with sounds that blend into a soothing lullaby, a backdrop to the enchanting symphony of scents.

In this moment, under the trembling stars, the insomniac is enveloped in the spell of Dans la Nuit. Each scent, each sensation, is a part of the untranslatable sorcery of desire, a perfume that captures the essence of the night and the beauty of the flowers heated by the sun. Maurice Blanchet's creation for Worth has become more than just a fragrance; it is a journey into the heart of the night, a sensory experience that lingers in the memory long after the night has passed.









Bottles:


In 1924, Jean Philippe Worth, inspired by a mesmerizing trip to the Italian lakes, envisioned a perfume bottle that would forever capture the enchanting essence of those inky sapphire blue nights. He desired a design that would evoke the celestial beauty of the Italian skies, studded with stars and cloaked in deep blue. To bring this vision to life, Worth enlisted the help of a talented friend to create a bottle that would encapsulate the magic of those unforgettable evenings.



 
The result was a stunning Art Deco-styled flacon, known as the boule, crafted by the renowned René Lalique et Cie. The spherical clear glass body of the boule was molded in low relief with delicate stars, each one a testament to the careful craftsmanship and attention to detail. The ground of the bottle was washed in a soft, dusty blue, reminiscent of the Italian night sky. This celestial theme was further emphasized by the stopper, which was a true masterpiece of design.

The earliest design for the stopper was a disc featuring an eclipsed moon of crystal-polished glass in bas-relief. This moon, set against a cobalt-stained sky filled with raised, crystal-polished stars, created a breathtaking visual effect that captured the imagination. The moon and stars motif was not only beautiful but also symbolized the nocturnal inspiration behind the fragrance Dans la Nuit. This style of stopper was available from the mid-1920s through the mid-1930s, making it a sought-after collector's item for its artistic and historical significance.

However, this enchanting design faced an unexpected challenge. Proctor & Gamble, the company behind Ivory soap, objected to the star-moon motif, alleging that it bore too close a resemblance to their own trademarked logo. The similarities were indeed striking, as both designs featured celestial elements prominently. Due to this allegation of trademark infringement, the star-moon motif stopper was discontinued in the mid-1930s, marking the end of an era for this iconic design.

Despite this setback, the original boule bottle and its celestial stopper remain cherished pieces of perfume history. They stand as a testament to Jean Philippe Worth's vision and the artistic collaboration with René Lalique. The bottle not only held the exquisite fragrance of Dans la Nuit but also encapsulated the dreamlike allure of the Italian nights that inspired its creation. Today, collectors and perfume enthusiasts treasure these bottles, appreciating both their beauty and the story behind their design.


 


Chemist & Druggist, 1924:
“DANS LA NUIT with device of crescent moon and stars; for perfumery, etc. (48). "DANS LA NUIT”; for goods (43). “Worth DANS LA NUIT” with bottle device; for perfumery, etc. (48). By Société Worth, 5-7 Rue de la Paix."


Commercial Art, 1924:
"SCENT-BOTTLES AS PUBLICITY By Christopher Mann, Photography Advertisement for "Dans la Nuit" and "Dans la Nuit" Perfumery by Worth, Paris (Photo. Studio Rahma, Paris). Notice the pleasing arrangement of the bottles in the Worth box which is of a lovely tone of blue. The color plate gives an illustration of one of the best bottles of all: a blue globe of frosted glass on whose surface little crystalline stars are picked out and whose stopper contains a crescent moon. The other is a harmony of amber and deep tones of blue. They have that extra elegance of form which is "Dans la Nuit” Perfumery by Worth, Paris."

Fashions of the Hour, 1926"
"The starry little bottle of Dans la Nuit is in midnight blue, from Worth, $11."

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1937:
"WORTH Worth's "Dans La Nuit" perfume is now available for the first time in this country, in a half ounce size. It comes in the same midnight blue Lalique bottles with attractive silver trimmings, which marks the larger packages."


From the mid-1930s onward, the boule flacon underwent a subtle yet significant transformation. In response to the trademark dispute with Proctor & Gamble, the stopper design was altered. The revised stopper retained the eclipsed moon motif but replaced the stars with the perfume name "Dans la Nuit," elegantly rendered in a lowercase calligraphic font. This change maintained the celestial theme while distinguishing the design from the contested trademark.

The evolution of the boule's design is well-documented in historical records. The René Lalique et Cie model register mentions the DLN boule model on March 29, 1924, marking the official introduction of this iconic bottle. The Canadian Patent Office provides further insight into the early design elements, recording on February 13, 1925, that the Société Worth, based at 7 Rue de la Paix in Paris, had patented a disc bearing the representation of a crescent moon and stars, accompanied by the words "Dans La Nuit." This patent underscores the originality and significance of the initial design, which combined celestial imagery with the perfume's name.

The boule flacon's production details further illustrate its historical journey. On January 20, 1926, a one-ounce version of the boule is noted in records, indicating the availability of this luxurious perfume in a smaller, more accessible size. After November 22, 1929, production of the one-ounce boule featured both stopper styles, offering customers a choice between the original star-moon motif and the new calligraphic design. Interestingly, a photograph of the boule with the calligraphic "Dans la Nuit" stopper is dated "after 1925," suggesting that this design was introduced earlier than initially believed, likely in response to the evolving market and legal landscape.

The revised calligraphic stopper added a sophisticated touch to the boule, aligning with the elegant and mysterious nature of the fragrance. The lowercase calligraphic font lent a modern, artistic feel to the bottle, enhancing its appeal and ensuring it remained a cherished piece of art deco design. This adaptation highlights the resilience and creativity of Parfums Worth in navigating challenges while preserving the essence of their brand.

Today, both versions of the boule stopper are prized by collectors and perfume enthusiasts. The original star-moon design is celebrated for its historical significance and visual charm, while the calligraphic version is appreciated for its elegant simplicity and adaptability. Together, they tell a rich story of innovation, artistry, and the timeless allure of Dans la Nuit.

Boule Flacons with Stars Guide (not complete) - "dln" means "dans la nuit stopper":
  • 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall (dln stopper)
  • 4" tall (dln stopper)
  • 4.5" tall (dln stopper)
  • 5.38" tall (stars stopper)
  • 12 oz bottle stands 5.25" tall (dln stopper) was also used in 1986 for EDT
  • 5.5" tall
  • Factice (star stopper), not always marked Lalique, stands 10" tall 
  • Factice (dln stopper), not always marked Lalique, stands 10.5" tall.



The boule flacon, originally designed to capture the enchanting essence of Italian nights, was produced in various sizes, each offering a unique way to experience the magic of Dans la Nuit. On October 5, 1938, a notable entry in the records indicates that a Dans la Nuit perfume boule was produced in a size of 9.8 inches. This larger version of the boule featured the elegant 'dans la nuit' calligraphic stopper, maintaining the refined aesthetic that had become synonymous with the fragrance. The 9.8-inch size was substantial, designed to be both a statement piece and a luxurious vessel for the cherished perfume.

In addition to the 9.8-inch boule, the largest size of the boule flacon measured 10.5 inches and was created as a factice, or a display bottle. These oversized factices were not filled with perfume but were used in stores and showrooms to showcase the grandeur and beauty of the fragrance packaging. The 10.5-inch factice, with its impressive size and detailed design, served as a striking visual centerpiece, drawing the attention of potential customers and emphasizing the opulence of Parfums Worth.

Beyond the perfume flacons, the design influence of the boule extended to other luxurious items in the Dans la Nuit product line. A particularly rare and exquisite creation was a glass powder dish with a lid, also crafted by René Lalique. This powder jar was directly inspired by the boule flacon, mirroring its spherical elegance and detailed craftsmanship. The powder dish stood about 5 inches tall with a diameter of approximately 4 inches, making it a perfect addition to any vanity table. The design of the powder jar, with its clear glass and star motifs, echoed the celestial theme of the perfume, creating a cohesive and enchanting collection.

Today, the glass powder dish is considered a highly sought-after collector's item. Its scarcity and the delicate beauty of its design make it a prized possession for those who appreciate vintage perfume accessories and the artistry of Lalique. The powder dish, like the boule flacon, is a testament to the luxurious and imaginative spirit of Parfums Worth, blending functionality with timeless elegance.

These variations in size and the extension of the boule design to other items demonstrate the versatility and enduring appeal of Dans la Nuit. Each piece, from the smallest perfume bottle to the grandest factice and the elegant powder dish, contributes to the rich legacy of Parfums Worth, offering a glimpse into a bygone era of luxury and sophistication.


As a hallmark of authenticity and historical context, the distinction between "R. Lalique" and "Lalique" markings on perfume bottles provides valuable insight into their age and provenance. René Lalique, the renowned glassmaker, originally marked his creations with "R. Lalique" during his lifetime, signifying his personal involvement and artistic touch in the design and production process. This signature was used up until his passing in 1945, making any bottles marked "R. Lalique" a definitive indicator of their creation prior to 1946. These bottles are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike, cherished for their craftsmanship and association with Lalique's artistic legacy.

Following René Lalique's death, his son Marc Lalique continued the family tradition of glassmaking under the Lalique brand. To distinguish their production from René Lalique's era, bottles made after 1946 simply bear the mark "Lalique." This change in marking reflects the transition to a new generation of artisans while maintaining the esteemed Lalique name synonymous with luxury, elegance, and fine craftsmanship. Bottles marked "Lalique" from this period onwards continue to uphold the brand's reputation for exquisite glasswork and remain coveted pieces among collectors of vintage perfume bottles and art glass.

Understanding these markings not only aids in dating Lalique bottles but also enhances appreciation for their historical significance and artistic evolution over time. Whether adorned with the signature "R. Lalique" or "Lalique," each bottle represents a unique blend of artistry and functionality, embodying the enduring allure of Lalique glass in the realm of perfume packaging and beyond. This legacy underscores the brand's enduring commitment to craftsmanship and innovation, making Lalique bottles cherished artifacts that bridge the past with the present in the world of luxury collectibles.










photo by Bonham's


1928 ad showing the atomizer flacon








In 1931, Lalique introduced a striking variation of their perfume bottles, showcasing their mastery of glasswork with electric blue and cobalt blue glass designs. These bottles departed from the clear and subtle tones previously favored, opting instead for vibrant hues that captivated the eye. The electric blue glass bottles, with their intense and luminous color, presented a bold contrast to the more common clear glass bottles. This choice not only enhanced the visual appeal but also added a sense of depth and richness to the presentation of perfumes like Dans la Nuit.

The cobalt blue glass bottles, available in two sizes of flattened spherical shapes, further expanded Lalique's repertoire. These bottles featured intricate moldings that showcased Lalique's expertise in glass artistry. Whether adorned with blue glass stoppers matching the bottle's color or turquoise plastic stoppers for a contrasting touch, each design detail was meticulously crafted to complement the perfume it contained. These variations in stoppers and colors provided collectors and consumers with options that catered to both aesthetic preferences and practical considerations.

The introduction of these electric blue and cobalt blue glass bottles in 1931 marked a significant evolution in Lalique's approach to perfume packaging. By incorporating vibrant colors and innovative designs, Lalique not only enhanced the visual appeal of their bottles but also set new standards for elegance and sophistication in the world of fragrance presentation. Today, these bottles remain prized among collectors for their beauty, craftsmanship, and the timeless allure they bring to the display of historic perfumes like Dans la Nuit.






The photo above shows the black leather purse sac which holds the parfum. 

Art et la Mode, 1952:
"AT WORTH. First of all, let's point out the charming purse flasks in their black leather case: all designated as a Christmas present. They exist for the best perfumes of Worth, in particular "Dans la Nuit" and "Je Reviens."

This appears to be a wartime flacon, either that or a fake, c1940s, photo by ebay seller lightofthemoon






Fate of the Fragrance:


During World War II, the production of many luxury goods, including perfumes like Dans la Nuit, was significantly impacted as resources were redirected towards wartime efforts. This halt in production meant that the fragrance was no longer available on the market, leaving its admirers without access to its enchanting scent for the duration of the war. The cessation of production during this tumultuous period underscored the broader challenges faced by the fragrance industry and its dependence on stable economic and geopolitical conditions.

It wasn't until 1953, several years after the end of World War II, that Dans la Nuit returned to counters in the United States. The resumption of availability marked a resurgence in interest for this beloved perfume, reintroducing its allure to a new generation of consumers who appreciated its unique blend of floral and chypre notes. The return of Dans la Nuit to American shores reflected a broader trend of post-war recovery and a renewed appreciation for luxury goods as global economies stabilized and consumer confidence rebounded.

Despite its eventual return to the market, the original formula of Dans la Nuit was eventually discontinued at an unspecified date. However, its legacy endured, with the fragrance still being sold as late as 1975, showcasing its enduring popularity and timeless appeal among perfume enthusiasts. The ongoing availability of Dans la Nuit for several decades after its initial launch speaks to its status as a classic fragrance that transcended trends and remained a cherished part of many perfume collections.

Overall, the history of Dans la Nuit reflects both the challenges and resilience of the perfume industry amidst historical upheavals, as well as its enduring legacy as a symbol of elegance and sophistication in the realm of fragrance.


Reformulations


In 1985, Dans la Nuit underwent a significant transformation when it was reformulated, marking a pivotal moment in its storied history. This reformulation was undertaken in preparation for the perfume's grand relaunch in 1986, commemorating the 50th anniversary of its original launch. The overhaul aimed to refresh and modernize the fragrance while preserving its essence and timeless appeal. Pierre Dinand, renowned for his iconic perfume bottle designs, was enlisted to create a new vessel for Dans la Nuit. The resulting bottle, manufactured by Pochet et du Courval with plastic components from Matic Plast and AMS, reflected contemporary aesthetics while honoring the perfume's rich heritage.

Following its successful relaunch, Dans la Nuit continued to captivate fragrance enthusiasts with its renewed formulation and updated presentation. However, the journey of Dans la Nuit did not end there. Subsequent shifts in consumer preferences and market dynamics led to its discontinuation in the years that followed. Despite this setback, the allure of Dans la Nuit persisted, prompting its relaunch yet again in 2000 with a new formula. This relaunch was another opportunity to reintroduce the fragrance to a new generation of perfume aficionados while adapting to evolving tastes and trends in the fragrance industry.

The successive relaunches of Dans la Nuit underscore its enduring appeal and the dedication of its creators to maintaining its legacy. Each iteration, from the reformulation in 1985 to the relaunch in 2000, sought to honor the essence of the original perfume while embracing innovation and adapting to the contemporary landscape of perfumery. As a result, Dans la Nuit remains not only a testament to the artistry of its creators but also a beloved fragrance that continues to resonate with those who appreciate its timeless elegance and evocative scent profile.


Fragrance Composition:


The reformulation's composition:
  • Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, violet, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle notes: carnation, cinnamon, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet, vanilla and vetiver

Scent Profile:


In its reformulated composition, Dans la Nuit underwent a transformation that retained the essence of its classic allure while introducing new notes to adapt to contemporary tastes. At the top, the fragrance opens with a blend of aldehydes, imparting a sparkling and effervescent quality, complemented by fresh green notes that evoke a sense of vitality and natural beauty. Violet and bergamot add a touch of floral and citrus brightness, while lemon contributes a crisp and invigorating zest, setting the stage for the unfolding olfactory journey.

As Dans la Nuit develops, its heart notes reveal a rich tapestry of floral and spicy elements that deepen its complexity. Carnation brings a spicy warmth, intermingling with the powdery elegance of orris root and the sweetly intoxicating jasmine. Ylang-ylang lends a creamy, tropical nuance, while lily-of-the-valley and rose contribute their delicate floral facets, adding layers of sophistication and femininity to the composition.

The base notes of Dans la Nuit anchor the fragrance with a sensual and lingering allure. Sandalwood offers a creamy, woody richness that blends seamlessly with the sweet and slightly bittersweet nuances of tonka bean. Amber and musk provide a warm and musky depth, enhancing the fragrance's longevity on the skin. Civet adds a touch of animalic sensuality, while vanilla offers a comforting sweetness. Vetiver adds an earthy and slightly smoky undertone, completing the perfume with a hint of complexity and sophistication.

Overall, the reformulated composition of Dans la Nuit reflects a careful balance of timeless elegance and contemporary refinement. It retains the essence of the original fragrance that captivated generations while introducing new nuances and modern elements to appeal to a broader audience of perfume enthusiasts. As a result, Dans la Nuit continues to be cherished for its evocative scent profile, embodying the enduring allure of classic French perfumery.

Bottles:


In 1986, for the grand relaunch of Dans la Nuit, Parfums Worth opted for a stunning homage to the original 1924 Lalique molded glass perfume flacon. This replica featured a spherical clear glass body intricately molded in low relief with delicate stars, creating a mesmerizing texture that enhanced its visual appeal. The glass was then enameled with a satinized, chalky-like blue finish, evoking the deep, mysterious hues of a nocturnal sky. This artistic choice not only honored the perfume's original presentation but also added a touch of modern elegance to its packaging.

The highlight of this commemorative bottle was its flattened circular stopper, molded with a crescent moon motif. This distinctive feature not only served as a decorative element but also echoed the poetic and evocative themes associated with the perfume's name, Dans la Nuit, meaning "In the Night." The symbolism of the crescent moon further enhanced the bottle's allure, suggesting a connection to the mystical and enchanting qualities of nighttime.

This special edition bottle of Dans la Nuit held 350ml, making it the largest size ever produced by Lalique for this fragrance. Its rarity and size contributed to its exclusivity and appeal among collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike. Originally priced at $485 in 1986, the bottle represented a luxurious investment in both craftsmanship and fragrance. Today, finding this bottle is a treasure hunt marked by specific inscriptions: "French Bottle" and "Creation R. Lalique." Each bottle is also inscribed with a unique number on the bottom, corresponding to a matching number on the base of the stopper, ensuring its authenticity and pedigree as a cherished piece of perfume history.



House & Garden, 1987:
"In 1922, the first Parfums Worth fragrance was packaged in a bottle designed by Rene Lalique , and with every new perfume developed by Charles Frederick Worth, another wonderful Lalique flacon was created . The tradition continues with a new scent, Dans la Nuit, to be sold in a blue crystal bottle  designed by Lalique over 65 years ago."


1980s version for the eau de toilette has a silver metal around the collar. Base of bottle is marked "Creation Lalique. Bottle Made in France."






Additional information used in this guide courtesy of:
  • The Art of Rene Lalique: Flacons et Powder Boxes by Christie Mayer Lefkowith
  • The Art of Perfume by Christie Mayer Lefkowith
  • Lalique Perfume Bottles by Glenn & Mary Lou Utt
  • Collector's Weekly website

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