Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Projets by Worth c1936

Launched in 1936, Projets by Worth was a fragrance that captured the essence of a vibrant, evolving world. Created by the esteemed perfumer Maurice Blanchet, the name "Projets" is derived from French, meaning "projects" or "plans," and is pronounced "proh-zheh." This term evokes a sense of ambition and forward-thinking, reflecting the aspirations and dreams of women during a time when they were beginning to carve out their own identities in society. It conjures images of sun-drenched days, exhilarating adventures, and a zest for life, all perfectly encapsulated in a fragrance designed for the modern woman.

Projets is classified as a floral chypre perfume, characterized by its spicy yet refreshing aroma. The scent embodies the exhilaration of mimosas in full bloom, harmoniously mingling with the cool sea breeze that wafts across the Mediterranean hills. This delightful fragrance is not just a sensory experience; it paints a vivid picture of outdoor escapades and joyous sporting events, making it an ideal choice for women who revel in the beauty of nature and the thrill of activity. With its dry, sweet notes, Projets invites wearers to embrace the spirit of adventure and the joys of life in the open air.




The context in which Projets was released was marked by a significant cultural shift for women. The 1930s were a time of newfound freedom and empowerment, particularly in the realms of sports and leisure. Women were increasingly participating in activities such as sailing and pleasure cruising, reveling in a sense of independence that had emerged in the wake of World War I. As they donned their elegant sailing attire or relaxed on deck, the scent of Projets would have complemented their adventurous spirit, symbolizing their desire to explore both the world around them and their own potential.

For women of the time, the fragrance represented more than just a delightful scent; it was an embodiment of their aspirations and a reflection of their evolving roles in society. The name change to "Clear Sailing" when sold in the United States further emphasized the notion of freedom and unencumbered movement. Ultimately, Projets by Worth was not merely a fragrance but a declaration of ambition, adventure, and the joyous pursuit of life’s many projects.

Worth was clever in crafting a series of perfumes with evocative names that told a love story, making each fragrance feel like a chapter in a romantic narrative. The titles of this series included "Dans la Nuit" ("In the Night"), "Vers le Jour" ("Towards the Day"), "Sans Adieu" ("Without Goodbye"), "Je Reviens" ("I Will Return"), "Vers Toi" ("Towards You"), "Projets" ("Plans" or "Projects"), "Imprudence" ("Recklessness"), and "Requête" ("Request"). Together, these names reflect the emotional stages of a love affair: the mystery and intimacy of the night, the promise of a new day, the bittersweet parting without farewells, the pledge of return, and the eventual reunification. These titles conjure up a romantic progression, from the initial allure of love to the challenges and uncertainties that arise, and finally, the enduring nature of affection.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It was described as both "spicy" and "refreshing." It is the exhilaration of the mimosas in bloom, entrained by the sea breeze of the Mediterranean hills. A dry, sweet, woodsy perfume for outdoor wear or sporting events.
  • Top notes: bergamot, honeysuckle, camelia, aldehydes, galbanum, lemon
  • Middle notes: clove, cinnamon, carnation, jasmine, mimosa, labdanum and rose
  • Base notes: vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, spices, patchouli, oakmoss, ambergris and musk
 

Vogue, 1936:
"Worth Projets. Light as the breeze, direct as the sail, cheerful as in the open air, a full and happy life."


L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
Projets by Worth: Bold and straightforward, this fragrance resonates like a call carried through the open air. Its essence thrives in the dynamic world of sports, reflecting your personality against the backdrop of vibrant landscapes. Whether you're skiing through fresh snow or sailing on the deep blue sea, Projets evokes your elegance and charm. Envision a transparent caravel gliding gracefully across a crystal-clear horizon, encapsulating the enchanting allure of this scent.

Scent Profile:


Projets by Worth unfolds like a fragrant tapestry, each ingredient a distinct thread woven into a harmonious scent. As you breathe in the top notes, the air is filled with the sparkling brightness of bergamot—a citrus that dances playfully on your palate, invigorating the senses. This effervescent note is complemented by the sweet, nectarous aroma of honeysuckle, evoking memories of warm summer evenings spent in fragrant gardens. 

The delicate camellia adds a soft floral whisper, while the crisp freshness of lemon brightens the composition, awakening your spirit. Aldehydes lend a shimmering quality, enhancing the overall transparency and vitality of the fragrance, while the resinous green notes of galbanum ground the experience with a touch of earthiness, hinting at the richness to come.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a captivating bouquet that is both spicy and floral. Clove and cinnamon impart a warm, comforting spice that adds depth and complexity to the scent. This spiciness intertwines beautifully with the velvety richness of carnation, which evokes a sense of vintage elegance. 

The heart is further enlivened by the intoxicating notes of jasmine and mimosa, both of which conjure images of blooming gardens basking in the Mediterranean sun, their fragrances swirling in the gentle breeze. The addition of labdanum brings a resinous warmth, while the soft, romantic scent of rose wraps around these vibrant elements, enhancing the overall floral character with its timeless allure.

As Projets reaches its base notes, the fragrance settles into a lush and complex foundation. The earthiness of vetiver and the creamy warmth of Mysore sandalwood create a rich backdrop that is both grounding and sensuous. Spices echo the heart's warmth, providing continuity in the experience while patchouli adds an earthy depth, its characteristic richness enveloping the senses. The comforting presence of oakmoss offers a whisper of the forest floor, evoking nature's embrace. 

Lastly, ambergris and musk impart a lingering softness, with ambergris adding a touch of the sea, reminiscent of ocean breezes caressing sun-kissed skin. Together, these base notes create a dry, sweet perfume that feels invigorating and alive, perfectly suited for outdoor wear or spirited sporting events. Projets is an exhilarating fragrance that captures the essence of joy and vitality, allowing the wearer to feel confident and elegant in any setting.



Bottle:


Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"Worth's newest perfume is called "Projets" (Clear Sailing.) It is available in one-half ounce, one or two ounce sizes,- also in a small introductory size and in the one-half ounce Clochette package."


R. Lalique Perfume Bottle shape known as"En Croisiere" in th Lalique archives. The bottle stands 6cm tall, oval glass with a molded design of a sailing ship amongst waves, with the sail showing the W logo for Worth.This bottle has also appeared labeled "Projets" and is sometimes referred to by the name "Clear Sailing". Photo from rlalique.com










Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. The last dated newspaper advertisement I found was from 1946.





1 comment:

  1. The notes are a bit misleading on this beautiful perfume. The predominant note is gorgeous sandalwood. It smells similar to Caron Tabac Blond with an extra dose of sandalwood. Truly unique and beautiful!

    ReplyDelete