Vers le Jour by Worth c1924

Worth was clever in crafting a series of perfumes with evocative names that told a love story, making each fragrance feel like a chapter in a romantic narrative. The titles of this series included "Dans la Nuit" ("In the Night"), "Vers le Jour" ("Towards the Day"), "Sans Adieu" ("Without Goodbye"), "Je Reviens" ("I Will Return"), "Vers Toi" ("Towards You"), "Projets" ("Plans" or "Projects"), "Imprudence" ("Recklessness"), and "Requête" ("Request"). Together, these names reflect the emotional stages of a love affair: the mystery and intimacy of the night, the promise of a new day, the bittersweet parting without farewells, the pledge of return, and the eventual reunification. These titles conjure up a romantic progression, from the initial allure of love to the challenges and uncertainties that arise, and finally, the enduring nature of affection.

Vers le Jour by Worth, launched in 1924 and crafted by perfumer Maurice Blanchet, carries a name that speaks to the optimism and hope of a new day. In French, “Vers le Jour” translates to "Towards the Day," and it is pronounced “vehr luh zhoor.” The choice of this name by Parfums Worth suggests a fragrance that mirrors the transition from night to morning, capturing the freshness and anticipation that accompanies dawn. The imagery evoked by the name conjures scenes of the first light filtering through the mist, flowers beginning to unfold, and a sense of renewal that only early morning can bring. It speaks to the beginning of something new—a time of reflection and quiet excitement before the world fully awakens.

In scent, "Vers le Jour" would be interpreted as a cool floral chypre, a genre known for its balance of freshness and depth, traditionally built around notes like bergamot, oakmoss, and patchouli. Given its classification as a floral chypre with a "heavy oriental background," this perfume likely opens with bright, crisp floral notes, followed by deeper, richer undertones that linger on the skin. The cool florals would evoke the fresh bloom of flowers in the morning air, while the ambery base adds warmth and mystery, reminiscent of the slow, steady rise of the sun, hinting at sensuality beneath the surface. The scent would feel both invigorating and grounding, ideal for outdoor activities or sports, as suggested.

When it was launched in 1924, the world was emerging from the shadows of World War I, and the Roaring Twenties were in full swing. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, both in society and fashion. They were more active, participating in sports and outdoor activities, reflecting a modern lifestyle that embraced both elegance and practicality. A perfume like "Vers le Jour" would have resonated with women of the time, offering a fragrance that captured this balance between light and depth—something fresh enough for daytime wear, yet complex enough to feel luxurious and sophisticated.

The time period in which "Vers le Jour" was launched was one of dramatic social change. Women's fashion had evolved towards more practical and liberated styles, and perfumes became an essential part of a woman's identity. For women in the 1920s, "Vers le Jour" would have symbolized more than just a fragrance—it would have represented their own personal transition towards modernity, freedom, and confidence. A scent designed for sporting activities and the outdoors, yet with a sophisticated and rich background, would appeal to a woman who was at once practical and glamorous, ready to embrace life with both energy and elegance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a cool floral chypre fragrance for women. Recommended to be worn for sports. A heavy perfume of oriental background.

• Top notes: bergamot, narcissus, geranium, lemon, lavender, violet leaf, neroli, aldehydes
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, lilac, lily of the valley, iris, clove, cinnamon
• Base notes: musk, civet, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Virginia cedar, Bourbon vetiver, oakmoss, vanilla, patchouli, tonka bean

The New Yorker, 1947:

""Vers le Jour." for the slightly masculine woman."

Scent Profile:

Vers le Jour by Parfums Worth opens with a vibrant and invigorating burst of bergamot. As I inhale, the citrusy tang feels fresh and crisp, like peeling a ripe bergamot fruit by the sea. It’s slightly bitter but uplifting, immediately cooling my senses, setting the tone for something both clean and invigorating. 

The lemon adds more brightness, a sharp, zesty twist that dances alongside the bergamot, making the air feel fresh and sparkling, perfect for a morning of outdoor activity. Then comes the delicate floral green of violet leaf, which brings a subtle, earthy freshness—an aroma reminiscent of crushed leaves underfoot, adding a coolness that lingers just beneath the citrus.

As the fragrance unfolds, the more herbaceous and slightly floral notes of lavender emerge, balancing the crispness of the citrus with its soft, powdery undertone. The lavender is soothing, grounding the fragrance as it settles on my skin, while neroli brings a touch of white floral sweetness. It’s like breathing in a breeze from an orange grove, fresh and slightly soapy. Underneath, the faint presence of aldehydes adds an airy, sparkling lift—a clean, effervescent quality that feels light, almost soapy, hinting at something modern and refined.

With time, the heart of Vers le Jour reveals itself, blooming with the soft, romantic allure of rose. The rose is velvety and rich, not overly sweet but full-bodied, bringing to mind the deep red of its petals in the morning light. Interwoven with this is the rich, sensual note of jasmine, heady and floral, its indolic nature adding a hint of warmth and sultry depth. The floral composition is fresh yet elegant, with lilac lending a spring-like sweetness and lily of the valley offering a delicate, green freshness that softens the richer florals.

There’s a spicy undertone in the heart from the inclusion of clove and cinnamon. The clove brings a subtle warmth, a slight sharpness that cuts through the florals, while the cinnamon adds a soft, sweet spiciness, evoking warmth without overpowering the cool, floral notes. Together, these spices infuse the fragrance with complexity, hinting at its oriental character. The floral bouquet continues to evolve with the presence of carnation, which adds a clove-like spiciness and a touch of earthiness, while iris weaves in its powdery, violet-like softness, giving the heart a regal, classic feel.

As Vers le Jour dries down, the base notes reveal a richer, darker side. Oakmoss appears first, its earthy, slightly damp scent grounding the fragrance in the signature chypre style. It brings a touch of the forest floor—green, woody, and just a bit smoky—adding a dry depth that contrasts with the florals above. The Bourbon vetiver adds a grassy, smoky nuance that’s both fresh and complex, blending perfectly with the oakmoss to maintain that outdoorsy, sporty feel.

The oriental background becomes more prominent with the creamy, smooth scent of Mysore sandalwood. This sandalwood is warm and milky, giving the perfume a rich, luxurious feel. The addition of patchouli deepens this warmth, adding a sweet, earthy aroma with hints of wood and resin, while ambergris adds a salty, oceanic touch, infusing the base with a subtle animalic quality. 

Musk and civet bring sensuality to the fragrance, their animalic warmth rounding out the drydown and adding a skin-like, intimate depth. The vanilla and tonka bean sweeten the base just enough, with a creamy, soft gourmand quality, ensuring the fragrance lingers on the skin with a warm, comforting embrace.

Together, these ingredients create an evolving scent that feels cool and fresh, yet warm and sensual. The overall impression is of a fragrance that can both invigorate and envelop—a balance between the clean, refreshing florals and the rich, oriental base. Vers le Jour would have felt perfectly at home in the 1920s, worn by a confident, active woman who wanted to carry a sense of elegance and sensuality, even while engaging in outdoor pursuits or sporting activities.

Bottles:

The bottle was designed by Rene Lalique. Bottle is a flattened circular shape fitted with a flat circular stopper in amber glass shaded with deep red, bottle molded with triangular motifs in a repeating pattern. The bottle shape was introduced in 1926. In 1953,  the amber Lalique bottles for Vers le Jour were discontinued.

Vanity Fair, 1927:

"The perfumes are Worth's "Dans la Nuit." in the smaller blue bottle, and "Vers le Jour," in the larger amber bottle; from Franklin Simon."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1953.

Reformulated and relaunched in 2000.

So what does it smell like?  The fragrance is classified as a fresh, fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, red berries, rose and angelica root
• Middle notes: narcissus, cyclamen, jasmine, osmanthus, May rose, peony, peach, pineapple and watermelon
• Base notes: Virginia cedar, sandalwood and musk