Monday, September 9, 2013

Requete by Worth c1944

Requête by Worth, launched in 1944, emerges as a fragrance rich in both emotional and historical significance. The name "Requête" is French, translating to "request" or "appeal" in English. It evokes the sense of a plea, a tender yet urgent call—perhaps for love, hope, or connection during a time of uncertainty. The word "Requête" carries a gentle longing, an expression of something deeply desired but not yet attained. In the context of the fragrance, the name suggests a scent that delicately invites, yet doesn't overwhelm, a soft request for attention, much like the allure of a garden gradually warming under the early morning sun.

This idea of gentle appeal translates beautifully into the fragrance’s olfactory composition. Classified as a light green floral bouquet, Requête captures the essence of a June garden as it stirs to life. The scent evokes images of dewy grass and flowers in bloom, touched by the warmth of the morning sun. As the fragrance develops, the sensual notes of rose and jasmine mingle with the fresh greenery, bringing to mind a serene, intimate setting where nature's beauty is celebrated. The musky base adds depth, anchoring the delicate florals and giving them a soft, sensual finish. In scent, "Requête" would be interpreted as both inviting and romantic, blending youthful freshness with a quiet elegance.

When Requête was introduced in the 1940s, it was a time of profound emotional upheaval. The world was engulfed in war, and women were living with the constant anxiety of having loved ones fighting overseas. In such a context, a perfume named "Requête" would resonate deeply. For many women, it would symbolize the silent prayers and appeals for the safety and return of those they loved, an olfactory echo of the letters they sent across borders and battlefields. In an era marked by separation and sacrifice, the fragrance could serve as a quiet comfort, a gentle expression of hope, desire, and personal connection.

A daytime perfume like Requête was suggested for a young woman, its lightness reflecting the innocence and optimism of youth even in dark times. Women of the time would likely have seen this fragrance as a representation of resilience and grace under pressure. The scent’s floral and green notes were a reminder of nature’s ability to renew and bloom again, even after hardship—symbolizing, perhaps, their own strength and perseverance. The musky undertone, though subtle, hinted at the romantic undertones of waiting, yearning, and, ultimately, the possibility of reunion.



In terms of its time period, Requête was launched at a pivotal moment during World War II, a period when fashion and beauty were not abandoned, but rather adapted to the somber tone of the times. Women might have connected the perfume’s name to their personal "requests" for peace and their deep yearning for normalcy. Despite the difficulties, fragrances like Requête allowed them to express their femininity and maintain a sense of normal life in a world turned upside down by conflict. Worth, a fashion house long associated with elegance and tradition, offered them a way to feel hopeful and beautiful, even as the world outside was full of uncertainty.

In sum, Requête was more than just a perfume; it was a reflection of the emotional landscape of the time. With its soft floral bouquet and light green notes, it embodied the innocence and hopefulness of youth, while the musky base hinted at something deeper—an emotional connection, a request for something just out of reach. For the women who wore it, Requête was likely a comforting reminder of the beauty and love they longed to see restored after the war.

Worth was clever in crafting a series of perfumes with evocative names that told a love story, making each fragrance feel like a chapter in a romantic narrative. The titles of this series included "Dans la Nuit" ("In the Night"), "Vers le Jour" ("Towards the Day"), "Sans Adieu" ("Without Goodbye"), "Je Reviens" ("I Will Return"), "Vers Toi" ("Towards You"), "Projets" ("Plans" or "Projects"), "Imprudence" ("Recklessness"), and "Requête" ("Request"). Together, these names reflect the emotional stages of a love affair: the mystery and intimacy of the night, the promise of a new day, the bittersweet parting without farewells, the pledge of return, and the eventual reunification. These titles conjure up a romantic progression, from the initial allure of love to the challenges and uncertainties that arise, and finally, the enduring nature of affection.


Requete was available as:
  • Parfum
  • Toilet Water
  • Cologne




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light green floral bouquet fragrance for women suggesting a garden warming to the early sun. Requete finally sensualizes the rose, jasmine and all the bouquet of a June garden mingled with a musky base.
  • Top notes: hyacinth, red berries, cyclamen, peach, pineapple, citrus
  • Middle notes: rose, narcissus, angelica, jasmine, osmanthus, peony, and May rose
  • Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, violet, Virginia cedar, musk, oakmoss


La Femme Chic, 1945:
Arpège by Lanvin is challenging to define; it embodies the scents of flowers, fruits, fur, and leaves all at once. It presents a true bouquet of both fresh and warm notes, and has been aptly described as "the living perfume that beautifies." While this charming description fits Arpège perfectly, it could also apply to Requête—a fragrance that feels just as fresh and youthful. Requête is like the eighth chapter in the ongoing "roman de la rose" crafted by Worth, joining the ranks of his other perfumes like Dans la Nuit, Vers le Jour, Sans Adieu, Je Reviens, Vers Toi, Projets, and Imprudence. This sweet Request is sure to be warmly received.


L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
Requête by Worth: Enhanced by the warmth of the skin, the essences in this perfume reveal their full depth and beauty, much like a musical phrase is enriched by a subtle yet powerful accompaniment. This fragrance is highly personal and versatile, complementing both the delicate freshness of blondes and the captivating allure of brunettes.


Fodor's France, 1951:
"Worth, 120, Faubourg Saint-Honore. "Dans la Nuit" — camellia, jasmin base ; "Imprudence" ; "Je Reviens" — cool, for blondes; "Projets" — for sports ; "Requete" — blondes or brunettes."


Bottles:




The parfum was housed inside a lovely crystal flacon outlined in blue by Lalique, there are three different sized flacons 1/2 oz (stands just under 3" tall), 1 oz (stands 3 1/2" tall) and 2 oz (stands 6 3/8" tall).



Harper's Bazaar, 1946:
"Worth's Requete Deluxe Presentation in Lalique Glass."

Home Journal, 1947:
"Requete, on the sweet side, in a blue-edged Lalique flacon. Worth."


Requete 2 oz Lalique flacon with original box. Height 6 3/8 in. Photo by Mastro Auctions.






1940s retail prices are as follows:
  • 1 dram perfume...$3.00
  • 1/2 oz Lalique flacon.....$12.50
  • 1 oz Lalique flacon......$25
  • 2 oz deluxe Lalique flacon....$50
  • 2 oz eau de cologne....$2.50
  • 4 oz eau de cologne....$4.50
  • 8 oz eau de cologne...$8.50

Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1976.

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