History

The House of Worth is a French house of high fashion that specializes in haute couture, ready-to-wear clothes, and perfumes. The historic house was founded in 1858 by designer Charles Frederick Worth. It continued to operate under his descendants until 1952 but finally closed in 1956. The House of Worth brand was revived in 1999.

The Historic House of Worth

Charles Frederick Worth opened his own design house in 1858 in partnership with Otto Bobergh in Paris at 7 Rue de la Paix. He had previously worked at Swan & Edgar Ltd and Lewis & Allenby in London and at Maison Gagelin in Paris. It was at Gagelin where he first established his reputation as a dressmaker. In the 1850s his designs for Gagelin won commendations at Universal Expositions in London and Paris.

While Worth was still at Gagelin, the house had supplied the trousseau for the newly-married Empress Eugénie. After opening his own house he was introduced to the Empress and appointed court designer. Her patronage increased his reputation and business success. He also dressed leading performers of the day: Sarah Bernhardt, Lillie Langtry, Jenny Lind, and Nellie Melba. Worth also created unique special event pieces for his best clients, such as masquerade ball costumes and wedding dresses.

Worth was known for preparing several designs for each season which were then shown by live models. Clients would make their selections and have them made to their own measurements in his work rooms. His designs incorporated elegant fabrics, detailed trimming, and superb fit. Wealthy women in the 19th century had four changes of dress during the day, and many clients would purchase their entire wardrobes from Worth.

In 1871 Worth would dissolve his association with Bobergh. His design and promotional talents had made the House of Worth a highly successful international business. Upon Worth's death in 1895 sons Gaston-Lucien (1853–1924) and Jean-Philippe (1856–1926) assumed the business.

In 1924, with the House now operated by grandson Jacques Worth, the house ventured into the perfume market. The company's first fragrance, developed by perfumer Maurice Blanchet, was the aldehydic floral perfume, Dans La Nuit. Glass-maker René Lalique was commissioned to design the bottle. Followed by the perfumes Vers le Jour in 1924 and Sans Adieu in 1929, both housed in exquisite Rene Lalique flacons. Je Reviens, a best seller was introduced in 1932 and Vers Toi was added in 1934.

Their metallic perfume labels were produced by the firm of Fernand Baumann, especially the one used for Imprudence.

Les Perfumes Worth was established as a separate business and would launch over 20 fragrances between 1924 and 1947.



Femme, 1946:

"Marguerite Gauthier, the famous lady of camellias, said she had a predilection for this greenhouse flower "Because it had no smell"... no doubt she wanted to jealously keep all the attraction of it for herself. 'a rare perfume, a strange scent. Not flowery, emanating from her black hair, her lace, her furs; an exclusively feminine perfume. What was this perfume of the lady with the camellias? Brother Alexandre Dumas neglected to tell us. We believe we found it very recently in a delicious designer box; but we'll leave it up to you to guess which one. Because Marguerite's perfume was, that is certain, a "dress" perfume: today one would say a designer perfume: which justifies - if it were necessary - the intrusion of the creator of elegance into the garden of sweet smells. 

It was Paul Poiret, innovative in many things, who first had the idea of launching new perfumes with his new collections; both very avant-garde, sometimes a little noisy...but the idea was beautiful and good. She created a tradition, a guest book; the biggest names sign up every day. It is a way of consecration, for a young fashion house, to in turn create one or more signature perfumes. Let's quickly see together which are among them. The favorites of the chic woman, that is to say the Parisian that you are. Let's start by noting that the perfume of each couturier, inspired by the same trends and the same inclinations as his models, necessarily resembles them and closely contributes to their originality. 

One of the oldest couturiers in Paris also happens to be one of the most famous perfumers. It's quite a suave poem that Worth composed with eight famous creations, the last of which, "Request," enjoyed a success worthy of its elders, we can remain faithful to "Dans La Nuit", we can prefer "Vers Toi" or “Je Reviens”, but one cannot deny the disturbing charm of “Request,” whose essences, stimulated by the soft warmth of the skin, blossom in a harmony that is both subtle and powerful."

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The house remained successful under Worth's descendants but would face increasing competition. In 1950 the House of Worth was taken over by the House of Paquin. In 1952 the Worth family influence ended with the retirement of great-grandson Jean-Charles (1881–1962).  In 1956 the house shut down the couture operations.

Combat, 1952:

“In the fragrant night of my deep desires.

Your memory comes back and still harasses me." 

These two verses from a forgotten poet would be a perfect introduction to the harmonies of the two perfumes that Worth created and which are called "Dans la Nuit" and "Je Reviens." Discreet perfumes but of penetrating distinction, of an extraordinary flavor well suited to expressing the refinement of the one who chooses them. A sumptuous gift under the false appearance of modesty of a bottle whose crystal flutes are extended by gold flutes, for "Je Reviens", and another whose transparent lens contains "Dans la Nuit" and is enclosed in a black suede case."

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After the closure of the Paris couture house Les Perfumes Worth was bought by Société Maurice Blanchet. It was sold in 1992 to David Reimer and became part International Classic Brands. It was later acquired by Lenthéric in 1999 and is now part of Shaneel Enterprises Ltd.

The Revived House of Worth

In 1999 the House of Worth brand was revived by entrepreneurs Dilesh and Hitesh Mehta. The fashion and perfume intellectual property were consolidated from the original firm's various family and corporate descendants into a single corporate entity. Giovanni Bedin became its principal designer after previously working for Karl Lagerfeld and Thierry Mugler.

The first couture collection was presented for the Spring/Summer 2010 seasons. The look updated and modernized Edwardian corsets which were elaborately decorated with lace and feathers. The voluminous crinolines of the past century were now ballerina-like skirts of tulle netting. The short (65 cm) skirts would also be featured in subsequent couture collections. In 2011 the house introduced its first prêt-a-porter collection, to be sold in the US under the label Courtworth.

The revived house reissued the perfumes Dans la Nuit (2000) and Je Reviens (2005) in reformulated versions. It also introduced new scents Je Reviens Couture (2004), W Superbe, Joyeause Retour, and Courtesan.